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The Making of a Restaurant

Monday, March 04, 2002

New York Times food critic Ruth Reichel was on a repeat episode of Whadyaknow? this weekend, promoting her recent memoirs. Her most insightful remark was this: if a restauranteur recognizes a food critic dining at his establishment, the worst thing he can do is lavish her with greater amounts of care and attention. She'll see right through it and lower her rating of the restaurant accordingly.

The best thing he can do? Lavish those guests sitting around her with greater amounts of care and attention. She may think the behavior merely typical, and then raise the rating accordingly.
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For about a year, food columnist Amanda Hesser has used her romance with one "Mr. Latte" as the framework for her culinary travels. Earlier this year she finally revealed his name (Tad), and this week, to introduce recipes for Chilean sea bass and a parsnip and potato sauce, she wrote about his recent marriage proposal, which she accepted.

Hesser -- Mrs. Latte? -- is only the latest woman to discover that, of all the routes to a man's heart, the surest and most direct starts with his belly. Truly, it is the express to all others' local.

We must recognize, therefore, that just as many couples have "our song," so do many have "our food." As in, "Look, honey, they're serving our food!" (For my parents, I believe it is spaghetti alla carbonara. I owe my very existence to generous portions of egg, cheese and bacon, which goes far to explain certain breakfast hankerings.) So although our menu will surely change, we should keep our recipes on file, waiting for the day when a couple comes in and says: "Twenty-five years ago we fell in love over your honey, oyster and kelp dish. Could you play it again?"

What's your food?
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Sunday, March 03, 2002

I've decided that if we manage to put quail on our menu, we must serve it with a side of potatos -- er, I mean potatoes.
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